Cheltenham: More than just horse-racing
- Cameron Woodhead
- Jul 20
- 10 min read
Updated: Oct 31
In March of every year, Cheltenham may be famous for its deafening roar, but step forward to a balmy weekend in July and the town is a very different place.
The hustle and bustle of the races is gone, the bookies are breathing a collective sigh of relief, and the townspeople are settling back into normal life, ready to delight in the verdant summer that their town perched on the edge of the Cotswolds offers up.
My partner and I had previously visited in 2024, but due to time constraints it was a transient stop. During that brief window, Cheltenham had left a little mark on us and piqued a curiosity to return and explore in greater detail. So it made sense that when Tommy's birthday came round again, we would try to have a longer stint for our now traditional weekend away.
As people who are normally drawn to vast, cosmopolitan cities, these birthday trips have been a departure from that and in previous years we've visited Bath and York. Cheltenham may not be the obvious next choice on that list for a lot of people, but on the face of it, it ticked every box for us: great food and coffee scene, culture, independent shops, and a slower pace of life to get away from the bustle of Birmingham.
Shortly before the trip, some car troubles threatened to scupper our plans, but a last minute train booking and some lighter packing ensured that the weekend could go ahead uninterrupted and we could unleash ourselves on the aforementioned food and coffee scene.
Coffee
The Green Coffee Machine
71 Queen's Rd, Cheltenham GL50 2RT
The Scandinavian Coffee Pod
7 Royal Well Pl, Cheltenham GL50 3DN
Slō Coffee
257 Gloucester Rd, Cheltenham GL51 8NW
Food
Salt Daddy
The Strand, 40-42 High St, Cheltenham GL50 1EE
Pig's Pizza @ DEYA
Unit 27, Lansdown Industrial Estate, Gloucester Rd, Cheltenham GL51 8PL
Baker & Graze
48 Suffolk Rd, Cheltenham GL50 2AQ
Alfonso Gelateria
21 Regent St, Cheltenham GL50 1HE
Shopping
Little Interior Co.
14 Bennington St, Cheltenham GL50 4ED
Badlands Records
11 St George's Pl, Cheltenham GL50 3LA
The Union Project
32 Cambray Pl, Cheltenham GL50 1JP
Travelling from Birmingham took around 40 minutes (remarkable considering the state of British railways...) and upon arriving at the Regency style station (built in 1840), it was time to seek out the first coffee of the weekend.
Across from the station is a delightful Scandi coffee shop called Slō that was top of our list to visit. However, on this occasion, we decided to save it for later and stumbled upon a more traditional coffee shop, The Green Coffee Machine. The inside was homely and welcoming, with a style almost reminiscent of an old British pub, albeit filled with modern drinks and baked goods.
With the weather being what the Met Office termed an 'amber heatwave warning', it only felt right to plump for something cold; so we went for an iced Vietnamese coffee, along with some delectable looking friands for later on. Its strong, dark coffee flavour and sweet condensed milk made a fitting accompaniment to the walk along the Honeybourne line.
Living next to the Harborne Walkway, we are used to having a former railway-line-turned-walkway to access, but this was a definite upgrade. The open landscaping leant itself nicely to the weather, with just the right balance of shade and sun. Wide paving made it feel more like an arboreal Parisian boulevard, guiding us with a foliage embrace to the town centre in a relaxing and calming manner.
Once in the town, the initial plan was simply to have a wander round and soak up the atmosphere. With the sun shining, the locals were out in force and there was a bustling market set up on the main high street. Bars, cafés and restaurants spilled out onto the streets, all adding to the European feel surrounding us. We are both big fans of European outdoor, café culture, making this a big tick and bringing joy to our souls.
After a short walk, we happened upon Little Interior Co. on a side street. Inside was an array of homewares that included some alluringly fragranced candles and an item that we had debated buying several times before: room mist sprays.
On this occasion, we resisted them, however, upstairs we spotted a thoughtfully arranged display of seed packets that tempted me to buy three packs.
It has always been a fantasy of mine to have herbs and vegetables to grow and hopefully this is the start of realising that.
Around the corner was Badlands Records, an award-winning independent retailer of vinyl, CDs and memorabilia.
Playing in a soul band, I am instantly drawn to the retro style and feel of records but currently, we unfortunately do not have a record player to play them on. Despite seeing several records that would have brought me joy to own, (especially a copy of Chet Baker Sings), I had to pass.
It spurred me on to look into a record player, on the other hand.
With the day hotting up, it was time we found some lunch. Cheltenham has a bountiful supply of delis and bakeries, but in the end we settled for Salt Daddy. I say settled, that makes it seem like a disappointment when it was FAR from that.
The gentleman behind the counter was smiling and friendly and allowed us to try each option before buying a mouthwatering 11hr aged salt beef sandwich, with fresh pickles, mustard and melted emmental in a brioche bun.
Hands down one of the best sandwiches I've ever eaten. I am not a massive beef-eater, but the meat was succulent and fell apart in the mouth. He even threw in some free fries that had a perfect crispness to them and were coated in a punchy barbecue spice mix.
We ate whilst sat on a small side street, surrounded by elegant Regency buildings, in one of which was a store that we'd set as a 'definite' for visiting - The Union Project. They stock high-end menswear, grooming products and homeware pieces from brands that we have at home, such as Studio Arhoj, Kinto and Aesop.
It just so happened that there was a sale on, which immediately switched me on to look for a potential purchase. There was an abundance of stylish items; nothing too 'out-there', but clothing that was cut in interesting ways or came in slightly unconventional colours. Most towns and cities in the UK can be low on interest when it comes to menswear, but Cheltenham possesses a real gem here.
After a short browse, I elected for a pair of YMC 'converse-style' boots in a soothing deep green colour. The customer service was great throughout and I walked away feeling a new spring in my step - quite literally with the sole on these boots.
The sun was bathing the pavements with an almost oppressive intensity by this point, so we sought refuge in a place we had missed out on last time - The Scandinavian Coffee Pod.
Inside it was sleek and sophisticated, demonstrating all the elements of Scandi design that we love. More importantly though, the coffee was sublime. We ordered two differing pourovers: a well-balanced and clean Assembly roast, with fresh strawberry and mango flavours, followed by a vibrant Dak coffee that had really strong watermelon and kiwi notes.
We stayed until just before closing, at which point we were gifted two very large and dense pistachio croissants that would form our Sunday breakfast. This is one of the things I love about small businesses - the humanity and connection is instantly there, not something that you'll find at one of the 'big two' chains (who I shan't name).
After relaxing in Montpellier Gardens and devouring the friands we had bought earlier, it was just about time to check-in to our AirBnB and making the fifteen minute walk in searing heat was not fun, but once we limped up to the house, our host was exceptionally welcoming (as was their dog) and provided us with some much needed chilled water. The house was spotlessly clean and had a comforting decor and furnishings. We rested for a short while in our room and freshened up before heading back out to a spot they recommended - DEYA.
Getting closer to the location, there was a lot of apprehension. We were directed into an old industrial estate with very little activity and the only signs of life were some seagulls hiding from the baking sun. It seemed that maybe we'd taken a wrong turn or got the address wrong, but just before we were about to give up, the brewery came into view.
Greeting us was a large colourful crocodile mascot and the area was teeming with people enjoying the July evening sunshine and some local craft beers and pizza.
There was a large open warehouse where the fermenters were on full display, complimented by an outdoor space, where the pizza van was located, and surrounded by fresh vegetable planters.
I ordered a wonderfully crisp pilsner, whereas Tommy went for a tart rhubarb sour, followed by a citrusy IPA. All of these were excellent accompaniments to the fresh pizza from Pig's Pizzas.
The base had a satisfying chew to it without being cloying and the topping of pesto genovese, parmesan, fior di latte and san marzano tomatoes was fresh and bursting with flavour. It was easy to see why they have won awards for their pizzas.
Sitting and bathing in the sunlight, soaking up the rays and the atmosphere, it was a satisfyingly relaxed end to the day.
The setup and layout of places like DEYA is becoming increasingly popular and it is easy to see why. Freshly brewed beers with character and flavour, street food of the highest order and a liberating layout stimulate a community atmosphere that makes Cheltenham (or wherever you may be) reminiscent of a beer garden in the centre of Berlin.
The evening following this was... less relaxing, to say the least. The intense heat made for an uncomfortable night, although despite this, the following morning kicked off with croissants and, of course, coffee.
It was finally time to indulge in Slō. Now, we have A LOT of different coffees, but the two we experienced here were a symphony of flavours beyond much of what we have had before. The first had a creamy feel in the mouth and tasted very much like a neapolitan ice cream, whilst the second was bursting with strawberry and cherry, combined with a syrupy, jammy mouthfeel.
The sleek interior was like a gentle, cooling hand on one's sweaty brow and the terrazzo coffee tables stood out poignantly against the pared back seating.
Sitting in an air-conditioned environment was a welcome addition, but I think it is safe to say that these coffees made the weekend and set us up perfectly for another scorching walk around the town.
The centre was quieter with it being a Sunday, nevertheless, this was a happy change of pace given the lack of sleep and increasing heat. We headed up to the district of Montpellier and its array of independent shops. There was something different presenting itself in every shopfront and the variety was wonderful to behold.
Bath Road was a particular highlight, featuring delis, homewares, clothing stores and a plethora of coffee shops and small restaurants. Having such a mix within a small area really made for a vibrant undertone and made me wish there was more of these areas spread across the UK. It seems that increasingly this sort of buzzing suburb is confined to wealthy areas of cities (such as Harborne in Birmingham, where we live) or traditional small towns such as Cheltenham.
This is in no way a bitter dig at Cheltenham or others like it, more a desire that everyone should be able to experience this quality of life outside of their work and be involved in an energetic and vivacious community.
Lunchtime beckoned and despite an agonising choice, we made our way to Baker & Graze. Stepping inside, we found a wood and metal industrial interior that was cosy and inviting. In spite of this, we decided to sit outside in a luscious green courtyard area to feast on (in my case) some camembert arancini, served with a fresh slaw that spiked through the rich cheese and rice perfectly.
Thereafter, we sunk into recuperation mode so as to preserve energy for the impending final week of term. After a brief browse in some clothing stores, we bumped into a very unassuming gelato store (Alfonso gelateria) outside the main shopping centre, Regency Arcade.
Full disclosure, I didn't get a photo of this gelato, as I had both hands occupied and it was melting inhumanely quickly, so you will just have to take my word for it... The tub was crammed full of a thick, creamy blueberry and honeycomb gelato, utilising fresh, homemade ingredients that amplified the experience and soothed my entire body on what was a humid and stifling Sunday afternoon.
It was a fitting end to a delightful weekend as we sat in the shade of a tree in the Imperial Gardens and whiled away the last couple of hours. There was an air of contentment and it was a gratifying change to our otherwise busy day-to-day lives as we simply allowed the world to pass by in-front of us.
The train back was, predictably, delayed. Nonetheless, Cheltenham had had a restorative impact on us both. Food and coffee was first-rate, the streets were buzzing and energetic, people were beaming and looked healthy and content with life, and the Regency architecture to surround it all created a simplicity and elegance that only Regency buildings can.
Despite being a small settlement of around 120,000 people and only 18 square miles, Cheltenham certainly packs a lot of diversity. A vast array of boutique shopping, world class bakeries and restaurants, premium coffees, gardens brimming with greenery, stunning examples of Regency buildings, there truly is something for everyone.
Even if you aren't satisfied with the options in town, the Cotswolds are on the doorstep and all the luxuriant landscapes and quaint little villages that provides.
So, next time you here someone mention Cheltenham and maybe one of your friends responds, "Oh, that's where the horse-racing is, right?", you can follow that up with, "I think you'll find it is SO much more than that".
All words, photography and opinions are my own.
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