Copenhagen: A city of supreme Scandinavian charm
- Cameron Woodhead
- Sep 12
- 8 min read
Day three.
Life in the Danish capital was starting to feel like a nicely worn in pair of leather brogues; suave and sophisticated yet as comfortable as a fluffy cloud.
In contrast to the first two days, we actually had a plan this time, beginning at the iconic Marmorkirken, or Frederiks Kirke, as it is also known. Featuring an imposing domed structure, the rococo-style church formed a domineering guard to Amalienborg, belying the ornate and delicate stonework that surrounded every square inch of its exterior.
After passing the building where Carl Nielsen formerly resided, we entered the vast open plaza and were greeted by the four identical palaces gazing down on the hundreds of people flocking outside.
It made a refreshing change to be able to walk so freely outside an important building, unlike with Buckingham Palace or Westminster, and the whole plaza was buzzing with people simply enjoying themselves and taking in the history and magnitude that surrounded them. Continuing forward, the Amaliehaven sat beside the waterfront and exhibited a modern approach to landscaping, with sharp, geometric lines in both the walkways and the plants themselves.
Across the harbour, there was another example of clean, geometric Danish design in the form of the Opera House. Looking across the water, it was almost as if a futuristic space shuttle had landed on a tiny island and it made for an impressive view.
As fabulous as the view was, we had to tear ourselves away and walk down the road to the main reason we had decided to base ourselves in this area for the day. When researching things to do prior to our trip, the Danish Design Museum was one of our 'must-dos' given how central Danish design is to our lives.
Even the ticket office typified Danish style and there was an adorable little coffee kiosk attached to it as well. The tickets themselves were a thoughtful touch and their QR code gained us access to the exhibits, beginning with the temporary exhibition focused on prints on various fabrics.
There was an abundance of colour in every hue imaginable, with the designs themselves ranging from muted and minimalist, to more experimental and eye-catching. All had their own charms and it provided plenty food for thought on future home decor.
The following rooms took us on a journey from the beguiling wire creations of Anders Hermansen to the crazy post-modernist world of the 1980s. Many iconic designs were on display, particularly in the large collection of dining chairs with their variety of wood and rattan styles. It was fascinating to see the development of these icons through the years and how the style has endured, to be desired the world over.
Appraising Danish design is hungry work and we duly headed towards the sub-level sandwich bar of Chill-ee. The counter was so tucked away and unassuming, it actually took us several attempts to find it, but once we had, it was definitely worth the wait.
We picked up a ham and cheese, and a roast chicken with pesto along with two fresh fruit sodas, before heading excitedly through the Nyhavn and onto a small cluster of islands, namely the Operaparken. On approach to the park, we passed through throngs of people all enjoying the plethora of cafés, bars and restaurants, but once entering the park, the hubbub melted away in the midday sun and the atmosphere changed to one of quietude, reflection and relaxation.
It was a true oasis of calm in the bustling harbour and as we sat and admired the surroundings, we tucked into our sandwiches. The bread was light as a cloud, but with a robust, wheaty flavour to it. It was smothered in a delectably fresh pesto and the chicken had been marinated in a pungent spice mix without losing any of its moisture. When I said the sandwiches were worth the wait, I wasn't joking.
We sat and contemplated our trip so far as it reached the halfway point, thinking how wonderful it would be to live in a city with such verve to it, yet could produce moments of tranquility and beauty like the Operaparken. A quick google search revealed the scale of the cost that would come with, however, but it was nice to dream for that brief moment.
On our way back down the harbour to the impressive Papirøen, we stopped in at Louis Poulsen and Ferm Living, who faced each other across a courtyard of naval relics. After bathing in the soothing lights of Louis Poulsen with their timeless undulating shades, the muted tones and comforting silhouettes of Ferm Living added to the relaxed feel of the afternoon.
The Papirøen, or Paper Island, was a new development of majestic proportions. Featuring vast, triangular residential buildings designed to resemble the old paper warehouses, it was a stunning reminder of what the Danes do exceptionally well.
On the ground level of one of the buildings was our latest coffee stop perched on the edge of the island. Prolog are a roaster as well as a coffee shop and they proudly championed their beans when we ordered a pair of V60s to enjoy by the water. Once they arrived, immediately the fruity aromas were apparent and this came through beautifully on tasting. It was like drinking a smooth, stone fruit juice and it was well-balanced and had a silky clean finish. Gazing out over the harbour, it was yet another moment of bliss from this amazing city.
After the modern landscape of Papirøen, the next area for exploration was something entirely different. Before heading that way, we made a quick visit to another Hart Bageri, buying a Fritz Kola and some sea salt and chocolate brown butter cookies. We revelled in their rich, chewy texture whilst heading down to Christianshavn.
The shiny new developments disappeared behind us and the old Copenhagen started to reveal its charm. There were colourful merchants' houses and navy barracks punctuating the meandering canals, giving a glimpse into the city's history. Christianshavn held a different atmosphere to the areas of the city we had seen so far, something more traditional and warming (not that the rest of the city seemed 'cold' at all), giving the impression of being more grounded and 'every day' than the gleaming harbours and grandiose central streets.
In the midst of the district stood the Church of Our Saviour, famous for the twisting staircase on the exterior of the spire. On this occasion, we decided against making the trip up, but it was a fantastic sight to behold, with the gilded railings and detailing swirling up into the sky as if trying to get closer to the sun's caring glow.
Just around the corner, was something entirely different. From the order and serenity of the rest of the city, came the freetown of Christiania. Formed in 1971 when squatters took over an old military base, it champions a lot of ideals of liberty and equality that we could resonate with, however, the lack of order did pinch a little bit for two people who like things to be 'in their place'.
It was a fascinating experience and even though the infamous Pusher Street is now gone, it had lost none of its anarchic outlook. Some of the bars and vendors looked to be serving up great produce, whilst people went about their business in a wonderfully carefree manner. Overall, it wouldn't be somewhere we could live, but seeing this different side of humanity was an eye-opening experience.
On our return to the EU, as the wooden exit sign proclaimed, we headed for the iconic Nyhavn and its array of traditional coloured buildings. We remained on the opposite side to the famous views in order to take it all in properly, whilst avoiding any of the tourist trap restaurants and bars. It was a charming area of the city, but I couldn't help think it would be better served by more authentic offerings than the overpriced establishments that appeal to tourists.
Originally our plan had been to grab a coffee from a small van that google maps had ensured us was at the end of the harbour, but with this nowhere to be found, we headed to another Copenhagen institution, Coffee Collective. The arched crimson door of the Bernikow branch was warm and inviting and despite it being almost 7pm, the shop was full of people sipping on their black gold.
We elected not to sit in and once again picked up a couple of delicious batch brews to have on the walk back towards the harbour. They had a deep nutty undertone that was cut through by plum-like acidity, fuelling us for the final steps to Broens Gadekøkken.
We had passed the street food market earlier and earmarked it for our evening meal, its wide selection of traders and open terrace being perfect for the August sunset. After some hefty debate, we picked the trader with the smallest menu to prevent further indecisiveness. Gasoline Grill has picked up numerous accolades and high profile recommendations since opening its first restaurant in an old petrol station so we were eagerly anticipating tasting their famous burgers.
Both of us had a simple cheeseburger with a milkshake once we had reached the front of a very long queue, giving further weight to the argument these burgers were something special. The patty itself was juicy and tender, full of rich meaty flavour as the creamy cheddar melted over the top of it. Some pickles provided a perfect crunch and hit of acidity, whereas the secret sauce tied it all together beautifully. After the burger had slipped down so easily, the milkshake was more of a challenge to consume - although I mean that in a very positive way. It was sumptuously thick and creamy, laden with ice cream and felt so decadent it was almost too good; this is what milkshakes should be like.
Our indulgence wasn't to end there, however. Spying a mochi cart on our way out, we impulsively decided to grab a small tray of three flavours for the walk to the metro, although they barely made it over the bridge. The three flavours were pistachio, raspberry and lemon, and a dark chocolate. Each were filled with thick, creamy ice cream, just like the milkshake, and were wrapped in a perfect traditional sweet, sticky rice. Every one of the three had their individual merits, the pistachio was naturally salty and a little more savoury, the raspberry and lemon was zingy and refreshing, whilst the dark chocolate felt rich and luxurious.
It was a fabulous end to another superb day in Copenhagen, where we had seen every different side to the city. Whether that be the riches of Papirøen, the historic Christianshavn or the libertarian Christiania, the capital just keeps throwing up surprises on every street and it was drawing us further and further in with its charm.
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