Copenhagen: A city of supreme Scandinavian charm
- Cameron Woodhead
- Oct 6
- 6 min read
Day four.
As the heat continued into the following morning and the whole city was awash with the sun’s canary yellow rays, we were starting the day underground once again, but this time finally managed to get a seat at the front of the metro. Indulging the child within me, I took a short video of the driverless train pulling into the next stop, barely containing my giddiness at this marvel of public transport.
We were heading for the multicultural melting pot of Nørrebro, advertised as the edgy side of Copenhagen and known for its plethora of food and shopping options away from all the big brand names of the city centre.
The first destination was a hidden little coffee spot by the name of Saftig and unbeknownst to us, it had recently opened the permanent sub-street level store. Inside it was rustic and inviting, with all the furniture being reclaimed or upcycled in some way, but it retained the Scandinavian vibe that coffee shops here are known for. Off to the left was a small nook containing an impressive record collection that we duly sifted through whilst our pour-over was being brewed. We also had an extended chat with the owner, who was perfect in his customer service and open attitude, giving us hints and tips for further coffee, as well as explaining in detail the coffee we were about to drink.
We expressed our gratitude and delight and set off out the door holding two cups of fruity deliciousness. I will confess, I cannot remember every piece of information about the coffee and wish I had noted it all down, as it was potentially my favourite coffee of the entire trip. It was clean and fruity, with a bright character to it and it left a light floral finish in the mouth that was perfect for kickstarting the day.
With coffees firmly in hand, we walked back to towards the metro station and the nearby Jægersborggade. It was a perfect example of a European suburban street; with minimal traffic, low-rise historic apartment buildings, cobbled road and wide pavements allowing for a leisurely stroll down its entire length to gaze into the menagerie of stores.
Each business offered something unique and tempting, whether that was rugs, homewares or hats, but one in particular drew us in with its sweet scent wafting down the street. Stepping into the doorway, we could see the wonderful sugary treats that Karamelleriet had to offer, it was a range of fudge, hard caramels and soft caramels in every flavour combination you could imagine – as well as some you couldn’t.
After thoroughly examining every tub and trying some samples offered to us, we opted for a classic cream caramel that was buttery and smooth beyond belief, along with some white chocolate and passionfruit vanilla fudge whose creaminess was punctuated by the tropical fruit’s sharpness.
We carried on up the same side of the street before crossing over and heading back down the opposite path, this time making stops at Udtryk and Meyers Bageri. The former was an adorable gallery and workshop that had a delightful range of prints, including a very Joan Miro-esque one that now hangs in our hallway. We then grabbed a couple of toasted sandwiches from the bakery, made with scrumptious fresh bread and filled with a variety of meats and cheeses, as well as some soft, fluffy cinnamon buns and headed for the Assistens Kirkegård.
An abundance of trees provided some respite from the intense sun, as we sat in a serene corner of the park using Google Lens to identify a few of the trees. It was easy to forget you were in the middle of a bustling suburb, given the amount of greenery and peaceful surroundings, yet it made sense given that within the park was a cemetery dedicated to some of the city’s greatest inhabitants. Among them was arguably the most famous, Hans Christiansen Andersen. His grave site was hidden away and modest, but that felt right, allowing the great author to rest in peace and be afforded the same laid back feeling that encapsulates the whole city.
Once we were feeling sufficiently rested and satiated, we ambled to another local independent hotspot, Elmegade. There appeared to be more focus on fashion stores, so we happily spent a large portion of the afternoon imagining outfits and how each piece would look in our wardrobes. Once we reached Molecule, we decided we were going to take advantage of a sale they had on and make some purchases. We were well looked after and tried on a selection of items, eventually choosing a polo shirt with a knitted pattern from myself and Tommy going for a new pair of sunglasses.
We left contented with our new bougie bargains and made our way to coffee number two at Norange, which had been recommended to us by the owner at Saftig. Inside was open and cooling after more attack from the sun, with the bar front being made of glass, allowing one to see the inner workings of the coffee machine perched atop it.
It was, predictably, very Danish in its layout and design, lending a gentle hand to encourage us to some window bar seats after ordering a pair of V60s.
One was a washed red bourbon from Rwanda, that had an apple acidity with a stone fruit after taste and felt smooth and silky in the mouth. The second was a slightly brighter natural Ethiopian coffee, that felt almost like a palette cleanser with its citrusy finish.
The heat and exploring was catching up with us, leading us to seek out some ice cream en route to the Nordhavn. This came in the form of Østerberg, a dessert shop grounded in science and employing it to create the perfect recipes. Some flavours are more traditional, like a vanilla or a chocolate, whilst some are more experimental, such as a lychee or jackfruit, but one thing is guaranteed – the finest ingredients are always used. I ordered a tub crammed with blueberry and honeycomb, desperately trying not to waste a drop of the sumptuous ice cream as it quickly melted in the heat. The blueberry was sharp and fresh, whilst the honeycomb sweetness complemented the creamy texture in a delicate harmony. You could really tell that every process had been methodically thought through to create a superior final product.
With the August sun in full bloom, the Nordhavn area of the city was brimming with people cooling off in the harbour’s pristine blue waters. The lax attitude to clothing was in stark contrast to the British ‘stiff upper lip’ but one could feel that permeating the whole atmosphere. Everyone was soaking up as much sun as they possibly could and swimming in the crystal blue waters, as bars and restaurants spilled out onto the harbourside. There was an overall sense of relaxation and enjoyment that was great to be a part of and made me wish for more environments like this in the UK.
After meandering through the buildings a short while, we decided to head back to Sluseholmen and check out a burger bar we had spotted on the first evening. It drew our attention due to the length of the queue, which is usually a good sign, despite the unassuming canalside location and the old silver trailer it was housed in. On arrival at Cph Smash, we joined a similarly lengthy queue, even allowing one of us time to nip back to the AirBnB and the supermarket to pick up more breakfast supplies, but with the spectacular weather and impressive Google reviews, we were more than happy to wait.
As we neared the front, they began to run out of burgers, but fortunately we’d made it just in time to ensure we wouldn’t miss out. We both chose a double patty truffle burger and as the gentleman handed them to us, he confidently said, “Enjoy the best burgers in Denmark”. Quite a claim, considering the ones we’d had the other night and the amount of burger restaurants we’d seen about the city.
Clutching them close, we returned to the apartment to devour them along with a delightful soda by the name of Faxe Kondi. With those previous words still ringing in our eyes, we peeled back the packaging to allow a waft of truffle and succulent beef to fill the room. One bite revealed that he had indeed been telling the truth. I’m not sure any words could do it justice, but the patty, cheese, onions and truffle all worked together to create a symphony of flavours that I can still taste now as I write.
Rounding off the day with a cup of tea and some of the fudge we had bought earlier, we attempted to get to bed at a reasonable hour so that we could fully commit to the final day of the trip. It had been another successful day of amazing food and coffee, on top of seeing some of the quieter and more suburban sides of Copenhagen. With just one day left, the post-holiday blues were rearing their ugly head, but we still had one final attempt left to ingest as much of this stunning city as possible.
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